Exploring Sanmachi-suji and the Sake Breweries of Takayama Old Town
Anyone seen Blue Eye Samurai? Feels like I have been transported back to that era
If you are traveling through the Gifu Prefecture in Japan, you’ll definitely want to visit the Sanmachi-Suji district in the city of Takayama, otherwise known as the Takayama Old Town. This area has been given the lovely nickname of “Little Kyoto” due to its gorgeous Edo-style architecture and vibes. Plus if you enjoy getting a little boozy with Sake, oh boy this is the place to be :)
This is my first time exploring Sanmachi-suji and I am so excited to share everything I discovered, from hidden cafés to must-try street snacks and the best spots for photos. Let us explore one of Japan’s most memorable historical districts, Takayama Old Town!
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Little Kyoto in Old Town Takayama
If everyone was dressed in Kimonos, it’s basically like time traveling
Sanmachi-suji consists of 3 main streets that are organized into different areas providing different shops, services, and experiences. In brief the 3 streets are:
Kamiichino-machi - Home to key businesses and high-traffic spots like sake breweries.
Kaminino-machi - Continuation of the first street or but less shops and more residential areas.
Kamisanno-machi - Known today for preserved homes, museums, and traditional atmosphere.
The streets of Takayama Old Town are lined with traditional Edo-style wooden buildings and paved with cement roads. From the pictures I took, you’ll definitely notice the dark, black/brown/grey colors of the streets. while it does look gloomy, I think it adds to the atmosphere.
Nearby is the Miyagawa river that separates the the Old town from the rest of Takayama. A red bridge connects the two districts, and is also a popular tourist spot for taking photos.
Kamiichino-machi (First Street)
So many people here…
This is the main street of Sanmachi-Suji, the Takayama Old Town, and it’s usually the busiest, full of tourists, shops, and little street food stalls. Here you can find a lot of the Sake Breweries that the Takayama Old Town is famous. You’ll notice these breweries right away if you spot these cedar branch balls hanging from the roof tilings, these are called Sugidama.
Here you’ll also find local arts and crafts shops selling DIY products mainly handmade wooden chopsticks with intricate art and designs, these make for a great souvenir to bring back home, I personally buy a pair whenever I travel to and of these older districts in Japan.
If you’re a foodie like me, the Kamiichino-machi is where you’ll also find lots of the japanese street foods that Takayama has to offer, things like Mitarashi Dango, wagyu beef skewers made from Hida Beef, and an assortment of Hida beef nigiri sushi.
If you're short on time, this is the one street you must walk through.
Kaminino-machi (Second Street)
A lot more peaceful and quite, perfect to enjoy the atmosphere
Kaminino-machi is a lightly quieter street, there is really not that much here but this sparse atmosphere makes it a great place to have some photo opportunities and to soak in the atmosphere and the Edo-style architecture of Sanmachi-suji, the Takayama Old Street.
This street is of course less crowded, so if you don’t like the large crowds, this street gives you more room to take in the Edo vibes without the bustle of tourists around you.
Kamisanno-machi (Third Street)
The Edo-style architecture is just so cool to see
A little bit more exciting and perfect for those of you who like to learn more about the history and culture of the Takayama Old Town is the Kamisanno-machi. Many of the buildings in this street have been turned into museums and teahouses.
The museums here showcase the daily life of Takayama and the every day dealings of the merchant street that is the Takayama Old Town centuries ago. If you enjoy some green tea, this is also the place where you can find many tea houses for you to rest at.
Don’t know where to start exploring or which places to visit in the Takayama Old Town? If you really want to experience Sanmachi-suji to its fullest, I recommend joining a walking tour with a knowledgable guide such as this Takayama Old Town Walking Tour with Local Guide. you’ll get learn about Takayama’s Edo-period merchants, and even stop by traditional sake breweries for tastings you might otherwise miss. If you’re short on time and want to make the most of your visit to Takayama Old Town, this walking tour is a must.
Best Hotels Near Takayama Old Town
The private onsen at Takayama Ouan Hotel overlooking the city of Takayama
Looking for the perfect place to stay in Takayama? Trust me, where you stay here can completely change your experience. From charming traditional ryokans where you can relax at a private onsen after a day of exploring, to stylish boutique hotels just steps away from the morning markets.
Here are a few hotels that I recommend that I think provide great comfort, a nice and welcome atmosphere, and are situated in great locations for exploring the city of Takayama. Don’t wait too long to book though, A lot of the best hotels in Takayama book up fast, especially during sakura and autumn seasons.
Fav Hotel Takayama - Newly built, luxurious hotel right in the center of Takayama, not too expensive for the quality as well.
Mercure Hida Takayama - A stylish hotel with fun colorful architecture and furnishings.
Takayama Ouan Hotel - A comfortable and high quality ryokan with a onsen overlooking the gorgeous city.
Strolling Through Sanmachi-Suji
A shop selling local specialty snacks and food items
Walking around the Takayama Old Town is like walking through a perfectly preserved slice of the Edo-period. This charming district flourished during the 17th century, particularly under the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate, when Takayama came under direct control of the shogun due to its strategic location and valuable timber resources from the Hida region.
During its peak, Sanmachi-Suji was home to wealthy merchant families, sake brewers, and artisans who still exist to this day. You can even find stores proudly displaying old family crests and original wooden beams back from the Edo period.
But while the rest of Japan developed and modernize, Sanmachi-Suji is stuck in the past. Maybe the locals just reject modernity and embraced traditions. This is why Takayama Old Town is often called the “Little Kyoto of the Japanese Alps”.
Sanmachi-suji is a haven for those who just like to chill
While there are 3 streets for you to explore, they do sort of offer the same sort of things with not much variation between them. That’s not to say you should only walk through one of Sanmachi-suji’s streets.
The shops here consists of mainly cafes where you can sit down, chill, and enjoy the old town Takayama aesthetic.
The Sarubobo Dolls of Takayama
It’s like he wants a hug
If you’ve been in Gifu for a while of you’ve been to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Shirakawa-go, you might have noticed these red plushie looking guys.
Sarubobo are traditional Japanese amulet or dolls, unique to the Hida region of Gifu Prefecture, especially around Takayama. These guys are called Sarubobo, which means monkey baby and are the mascot of this region.
Sarubobo dolls were traditionally made as charms, and symbolizes things like to: Protect children and ensure safe childbirth, happiness, good fortune, and a good marriage, and to ward off evil spirits and illness.
The red color of the Sarubobo is believed to protect from bad luck and disease similar to how red is used in other Japanese talismans. A creepy features is the facelessness of Sarubobo, which is actually intentional. It was said that the face could reflect the emotions of the person who received it, or that leaving it blank kept the doll’s meaning universal.
Today, you can buy little versions of Sarubobo in keychain or plushie form, and they come in different colors each having different meanings. you can read more about these cute Sarubobo guys at this website.
Old Style Rickshaw Rides
Guys I think they’re lost
As you are walking through Sanmachi-suji you might also notices these old pulled rickshaws, you can definitely ride on yourself, I understand that it can be tiring walking through the 3 streets.
I didn’t get the chance to ride them, but if you do, I bet you’ll feel like royalty as you’re being pulled down the old town streets.
You can also rent a Kimono to wear as you are exploring Sanmachi-suji! If you really want to get into the vibe, be sure to wear a Kimono while riding the rickshaws ;)
Please note though, that renting a Kimono can be expensive but for you Instagram models out there, it’s definitely worth it.
What to Eat at Takayama Old Town?
I might be biased here but as a foodie, I think one of the best ways to fully experience the Takayama Old Town is through its variety of Japanese street food, and trust me, the streets of Sanmachi-Suji are packed with a lot of unique street food dishes you won’t want to miss.
Soft Serve Ice Cream
No joke, Japanese people like eating ice cream during the winter to balance their body temperature
Now admittedly, soft serve Ice Cream can be found everywhere in Japan, especially at touristy areas but I recommend you seek out soft cream in Sanmachi-suji. Ice Cream just feels different to eat when you are walking through an Edo-style district.
There are dozens of shops selling soft cream with all sorts of different flavors. The classic flavors are Hokkaido Milk, Chocolate, Matcha, and sometimes Charcoal Vanilla, which is my personal favorite. All of the shops sell the same soft serve ice cream, like they’re from the same supplier, so take your pick.
Hida Beef Wagyu Skewers, Croquettes, and Nigiri Sushi
Sorry for the blurry picture but this was delicious
Another food item you should look out for is anything wagyu or beef like grilled skewers, sushi, croquettes, etc.. That’s because this region is especially famous for their variant of Wagyu known as Hida Beef, recognized as Japan’s best beef and from the highest quality of black cattle that is bred in the Gifu prefecture.
I got a Hida beef skewer, and to be honest it tastes similar to any other high quality wagyu you might find in Japan, I’m no wagyu expert so I couldn’t discern any difference from the other wagyu beef out there. That’s not to say it’s average, oh no, sorry for any misunderstanding but Hida beef still tastes amazing and you should definitely have a taste whenever you are in Sanmachi-suji or any other parts of Gifu.
One famous way to serve Hida Beef in this region is in the style of Nigiri Sushi on top of a thin rice cracker. This snack can also be found at Shirakawa-go, if you happen to be there.
Usually the vendors will have different pricing options available but I went with the most expensive option to get the full experience. Three pieces of Nigiri sushi served warm or slightly cold all topped with various types of Hida Wagyu Beef.
They all taste delicious, though while I was there the weather was cold so it kind of mitigated the flavor a bit, still it was beefy, oily, fatty, and delicious. Well worth a try whenever you are in Takayama Old Town.
Gohei Mochi, Roughly Pounded Rice Cakes
Another famous snack that I recommend you try and one that can only be found in Takayama is the Gohei Mochi. These guys are similar to your mochi that you can find in Konbinis all over Japan but what makes Gohei Mochi different is that it’s roughly pounded.
That means you get a better feel for the texture of the individual grains of rice, also the mochi lathered with a sweet and salty soy sauce glaze. The Gohei Mochi is then grilled over a charcoal flame giving it a little smokey burnt char taste to the soy sauce, and a little crunch from the rice.
Sake and the Yoshijima Heritage House
So many different varieties of sake to try!
The district of Sanmachi-suji is well known for it’s many Sake breweries. Being a former merchant district it makes sense, you can imagine back in Edo Japan, travelers would take a rest in this area and enjoy a few drinks before heading off again.
There are many shops to check out, with each one of them allowing for taste tests of their Sake. Some places even offer workshop activities or tours through their brewing facilities, such as this Tour and Tasting activity at Takayama’s oldest Sake brewery.
Empty sake barrels can be seen all over the street
The Yoshijima Heritage House is a national cultural treasure, and it was the home of the Yoshijima family as well as their brewery. The building itself is quite old being constructed during 1908, with the architecture showcasing an old yet elegant design with various woodworks and the Yoshijima family crest being on display.
While certainly a location you should check out, I will warn you that it is quite touristy, so just a quick stroll through the house will do.
If you’re heading to Takayama Old Town just to drink sake, I recommend the tour below. On this guided tour, you’ll stroll through Sanmachi-Suji while sampling a variety of locally brewed sake, each with its own unique flavor, story, and brewing method.
Takayama Jinya Old Government Building
Is that a samurai guarding the entrance? O.o
This building, the Takayama Jinya was a former government office building during Edo Japan. The district of Sanmachi-suji was actually built surrounding this building.
Of course, in this modern day and age, the Takayama Jinya no longer serves its original purpose, instead it is now a history museum for tourists and locals alike.
If you go in you’ll see great halls, conference rooms, residential areas, offices, and even an interrogation room. Plus a fun fact is that Takayama Jinya’s main hall used to be considered as one of the biggest rice storehouses not just in Takayama but in all of Japan!
The entrance fee is 440 JPY for adults, for high school children and younger ages, the admission price is totally free.
Details About Sanmachi-suji
Sanmachi-suji, better known as Old Town Takayama, is a district in the city of Takayama that is lovingly referred to as “Little Kyoto”.
During peak tourism season, the 3 streets can be crowded and full of tourists. While the district is open 24 hours a day, most shops and cafes close at around 4:30PM.
Location: 20 Kamisannomachi, Takayama, Gifu 506-0846, Japan
Opening Hours: 24 Hours | Mon - Sun
Looking for Things to Do in Takayama?
Takayama and Shirakawa-go Day Tour - Tour Takayama and a UNESCO World Heritage site
Oldest Sake Brewery Tasting Tour - Sample some of Takayama’s oldest and best sake
Discounted Tours - Browse a variety of attractions, tours, and transports all for a great price
Useful Resources for Traveling in Japan
Tourism Information - All the information you need when traveling in Japan
4G eSim for Japan - 4G 5-15 day eSim for Japan (QR code sent via email)
JR Railway Pass - The most important train ticket to get you around Japan